How to climb Mount Fuji

Posted by Possom on August 13th, 2024

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Tokyo

Every year, hundreds of thousands of tourists and enthusiasts flock to Japan to embark on a celebrated expedition: climbing Mount Fuji, the country’s famed volcano that lies around 100km south-west of Tokyo.

Some 300,000 people tackle Japan’s tallest peak each year during the open season that runs from July to September(while millions visit just for the views). While it is doable for hikers of all levels who are in good physical health, it is important to be well prepared in advance, from knowing which trails to choose to planning rest stops and other logistics.

I ascended Fuji last summer, and it was one of the most memorable experiences I’ve had. The trek, which is on average around 14km (depending on the trail), is surprisingly manageable, though it takes about five to seven hours to reach the summit and three to four hours for the descent. There are a few steep, challenging sections, but nothing that will prevent the average healthy person from getting to the top.

Approximately 300,000 people climb Mount Fuji every summer between July and September© Jamoo/Shutterstock

The environmental conditions can pose problems: the high altitude can trigger a range of symptoms such as headache, nausea or breathing difficulties, and the rapid temperature changes can be a shock to those unequipped with suitable all-weather gear. A number of people die climbing Fuji each year, and dozens require rescuing due to altitude sickness, hypothermia or injuries. The following advice should help in planning a safe journey.

Choosing a trail

There are two major choices that prospective Fuji climbers first must make in advance of setting off: which of the mountain’s trails to follow and where to stop for a break.

New safety measures

New measures aimed at tackling overcrowding on the mountain have been introduced in 2024. Daily climbers on the Yoshida Trail are now capped at 4,000, while its entrance is closed from 4pm until 3am. There is now also an entrance fee of ¥2,000. Those taking the Subashiri, Gotemba and Fujinomiya trails must preregister their climbing informationand complete an online climbing-etiquette course beforehand. Visitors must also present reservation documents after 4pm.

There are four trails up the mountain, which is also divided into 10 "stations": designated rest stops along each pathway (there are "half stations" too, added in recent years to manage increasing numbers of visitors). The fifth station on each trail is the starting point for the majority of hikers, as it is the most accessible from Tokyo and the nearest train stations.

The starting points for each trail offer basic amenities, including restrooms, shops and an information centre. Once you start hiking, the terrain of all the trails except Gotemba is quite similar, beginning with a forested section providing shade and relatively mild inclines that gradually transition into steeper, rockier paths, marked by volcanic ash.

The Yoshida Trail(orange line) is the most popular route as it is the most easily accessible from central Tokyo, but it is also the most crowded (137,236 people hiked it last summer, compared to the Subashiri Trail’s 19,062). It does, however, offer the most amenities, such as provisions shops and toilets).

The Yoshida and the Subashiri trails (below) become one single route from the eighth station to the summit.

Altitude of trail: 2,300m | Difficulty level: Moderate
Distance (from the fifth station to the summit): 6.8km
Ascent: Six hours | Descent: Four hours
Mandatory fee: ¥2,000 ($13.50/£10.50)
Daily limit: 4,000 visitors

The Subashiri Trail(red line), which I climbed last summer, is considered the hidden gem of Mount Fuji: it is much less crowded than the Yoshida (until the eighth station, where the two join) and features the highest tree line of all four routes. The lush forests of cypress, oak and hemlock offered protection from the sun until 2,700m.

Altitude of trail: 2,000m | Difficulty level: Moderate to challenging
Distance: 6.9km
Ascent: Six hours | Descent: Three hours
No fees or daily limit
Mandatory e-learning training pre-climb

Stéphanie Pursad (right) and a friend traverse the Subashiri trail© Stéphanie Pursad

The Gotemba Trail (green line) is the longest and considered the most difficult. It is mostly volcanic shale, which can be slippery underfoot (this portion of the mountain is known as the Osunabashiri, or the "Great Sand Run"), while the wide open nature of the terrain, unlike the other routes, means hikers are far less protected from the sun by tree cover. It is best suited for experienced climbers.

Altitude of trail: 1,450m | Difficulty level: Challenging
Distance: 10.5km
Ascent: Seven hours | Descent: Three hours
No fees or daily limit
Mandatory e-learning training pre-climb

The Fujinomiya Trail(blue line), steep and rocky, is the shortest hike among the four trails. It is the second most popular after the Yoshida, and is similarly crowded during peak hours.

Altitude of trail: 2,400m | Difficulty level: Moderate to challenging
Distance: 4.3km
Ascent: Five hours | Descent: Three hours
No fees or daily limit
Mandatory e-learning training pre-climb

Booking a hut

From the fifth station and higher, hikers can stop at mountain huts to rest

Once you choose a trail, you will need to strategise your rest point before setting off. ("Bullet Climbing" — hiking directly to the summit without resting — is not recommended by local authorities.)

From the fifth station and up, hikers can stop at mountain huts to use the restroom (which costs ¥200 to ¥500), buy snacks and take a break. There are 43 huts in total, spread across all four trails. They serve as crucial way points for altitude acclimatisation and rest, helping climbers manage the physical demands of the ascent and providing shelter from the rapidly changing weather conditions on the mountain.

Reservations are required if you would like to have a hot meal or a sleep, the latter being especially important if you are one of the many people who try to make it to the summit to catch the sunrise. Huts usually cost around ¥13,000 (£65) including dinner and breakfast and can be booked before the hiking season begins, some as early as April or May, either over the phone (note that your interlocutor will most likely speak in Japanese only) or online. A list of hut websites and phone numbers can be found here. Securing a hut reservation can be like getting tickets to Glastonbury: ahead of the season, each hut announces the date and time when their reservation system will open, and they tend to book up very quickly. However, it’s also possible to book with an agency (we used Japan Mountain Huts), which is perhaps the best option for last-minute planners.

The ascent: what to expect

We decided to follow the less-busy Subashiri Trail. The first half of the climb started in a beautiful, dense foggy forest where we were surrounded by high trees, wildflowers and alpine plants. As we continued walking, the visibility progressively worsened, alternating between blue sky and thick mist within seconds, so we proceeded with caution. The air also became notably thinner quite soon, slowing down our pace. My advice would be to start hiking as early as possible to leave plenty of time for breaks and to walk at a comfortable pace. We set off at 1.30pm and wished we had started earlier, had we appreciated how challenging the altitude would be.

Keen to reach the summit at sunrise, we stopped at the hut we had booked at the seventh station, where we were quickly checked in and handed two pages of rules to follow (lights out was at 8pm, for example, and teeth brushing was forbidden inside).

Inside the hut where Pursad and friends stopped for a quick sleep . . . © Courtesy of Stéphanie Pursad

. . . and a hot meal© Courtesy of Stéphanie Pursad

For dinner, our stay included unlimited rice and miso soup with daikon radish, onions and carrots; accompanied by beef hamburger steak. After hiking for hours in the cold, it was the perfect meal. The hut was rustic but comfortable enough for a few hours’ sleep in a spacious room with wooden bunk beds. A mattress and blankets were provided, but no pillows.

We started our ascent to the summit around 1am, wearing headlamps and our winter hiking gear as the temperature hovered around 5C. It was a smooth climb until we reached the point where the Yoshida and Subashiri trails merge into a single path, where the route became overwhelmingly crowded along the steep and narrow pathways.

Many hikers aim to make it to Fuji’s summit to catch the sunrise© Kai Kienzle/Getty Images

We made it to the summit just before 5am — right on time to catch the sunrise. The sky was clear, which is not always the case, and we took in the unkai, or sea of clouds, and surrounding landscape, including the Japanese Alps, nearby lakes and even a distant Tokyo. Despite the lack of sleep, cold temperature and low oxygen level, we were exhilarated after pushing ourselves to climb the whole 6.9km with an elevation gain of 1,743 metres. We took in the breathtaking environs, warming up with the sun’s rays, and tucked into a bento box for breakfast, which our hut had provided, including rice with pickled vegetables, preserved fish and a sausage, which we wolfed down with the unforgettable view.

The descent

Hikers can walk around the peak (about a 1.5-hour walk) before heading back down. The three hour or so descent was probably the most challenging part of the hike, given the combination of sleep deprivation, sun exposure and the risk of slipping on the trail’s loose rocks and pebbles.

It is important that hikers are particularly careful on the descent to avoid slipping on loose rocks and pebbles

At 8.30am, we made it back to the fifth station, where we sipped a well-deserved cup of coffee, disposed of our rubbish and started making our way back to Tokyo, where we admired the looming Mount Fuji from a distance.

fujisan-climb.jp/en

What to wear and pack

Start the hike wearing shorts and a T-shirt — daytime temperatures are usually around 30C at the fifth station during the season — and pack additional clothing for cooler climes higher up. If your hope is to see the sunrise at the summit, you may need to start your journey to the top at 1am or 2am, when it will be very cold. Also, be sure to invest in good hiking boots that are waterproofed, in case it rains.

With the exception of the hiking poles, I packed the following into my 20-30l backpackand found every item useful at one point or another.

Clothing:

Waterproof trekking trousers
Moisture-wicking base layers (a long-sleeved shirt, a T-shirt and leggings)
A warm, heavier layer, such as a zip-up fleece jumper
An insulated jacket and a waterproof windbreaker (it is very windy closer to the summit)
Gloves, a hat/beanie and warm wool socks
A change of underwear and socks — it is an overnight hike
A headlamp

Other items:

A rain cover to protect your backpack
Hiking poles — not necessary but recommended for the ascent
Sunglasses and sun cream — you will be under direct sun for hours
Snacks and water. It is especially important to stay fuelled and hydrated as the high altitude causes your body to lose water, vital nutrients and minerals twice as fast as at sea level, and drinking water regularly will protect you from altitude sickness. Consider adding electrolytes to your water to boost hydration and energy levels
Bin bags: there are no trash bins along the trail and not even in the mountain huts. You will need to carry your own rubbish from the start of the hike until the end
Medication in case of headaches or acute mountain sickness from the altitude
Toothbrush, toothpaste and wet wipes: the huts are very basic — no amenities, no shower — and wet wipes will be a lifesaver if you want to freshen up
Earplugs and an eye mask if you plan to sleep in a hut
Cash, preferably ¥100 coins, to buy water, oxygen bottles if needed and to use the restrooms (access to restrooms costs ¥200 to ¥500). Cash is also required if you’d like to make a voluntary donation to Mount Fuji World Cultural Heritage Council for ¥1,000, which contributes to the maintenance and conservation of the National Park

Have you climbed Mount Fuji? Tell us about your experience and share any tips in the comments below.And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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